Bestselling Table Saw Accessories in 2020
POWERTEC 71009 Safety Push Block and Stick Package, 5-Piece
- Essential safety protection to use router table, shaper, band saw, table saw and jointer
- 1 long push block, 2 short push blocks, 1 safe V stick and 1 push stick; total of 5 pieces
- Tough, durable plastic design for long lasting use; Rubber soles firmly grip your workpiece
- Orange color ensures high visibility
- Prevents kickback and protects hands and fingers from sharp cutting blades
Rockwell RW9266 BladeRunner X2 Cross Cut Sled
- Ideal for precise cross cutting applications
- Cutting groove for easy alignment
- Room to place your hands safely during your cuts
- Helps produce 90-degree cross cuts
Milescraft 1406 FeatherBoard for Router Tables, Table Saws and Fences
- This innovative Featherboard design provides consistent tension and maximum holding pressure created by unique split rail construction
- Pre-load tension design maintains consistent pressure across face of the featherboard
- 5/8" and 3/4" metal miter bars fit all standard miter slots
- Dual Slide Motion-side to side and forward action for quick and easy setup
- All mounting hardware included for nearly any operation 3/4 and 5/8-Inch wide miter bars and t-slot bolts for applications on most standard table saws, router tables, and fences
- Unique Pre-Load Tension Design-quickly set tension for consistent cuts while reducing the chance of kick-back
- Split rail miter bar construction-provides maximum hold
- Ergonomic knobs help prevent over-tightening and provides non-slip loosening
Shop Fox D2054 Roller Stand
- 150-Pound capacity
- 13-Inch wide ball bearing roller
- All-steel construction
- Non-marring' pads
- Unit folds flat for storage
GRR-RIPPER 3D Pushblock for Table Saws, Router Tables, Band Saws, and Jointers by MICROJIG
- 3-Directional Force for Unmatched Control of the Work piece
- Moving-Blade-Guard Hand Protection
- Precise 1/4" Thin Rips
- Virtually Eliminates Kickback
- Work with Small Stock Safely on the Table Saw, Router Table, Jointer, & Band Saw
- 3-Directional Force for total control of the workpiece
- Work with small stock safely
Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig
- Sold on Amazon
Kreg KMS7102 Table Saw Precision Miter Gauge System
- Factory Calibration. Guaranteed out of the box to .003 accuracy of 6-inches
- Gauge head is CNC machine perfectly square to the bar and table ( no stampings)
- Vernier scale allows fast, 1/10th-degree angle adjustments. Our extremely straight 24 inch (610mm) anodized-aluminum bar is 3/8 inch(9.5mm) thick by 3/4 inch(19mm) wide and features five bar adjusters that you can use to eliminate "play" in the miter slot with the turn of a screwdriver
- Microadjuster allows additional angle adjustment to 1/100th degree
- Positive stops at 0, 10, 22-1/2, 30 and 45-degrees; limited lifetime warranty
16" Table Saw Extension Kit by Peachtree Woodworking PW1007
- WOOD PLATFORM AND SAW ARE NOT INCLUDED: The kit includes the following parts;
- 2ea. 24" Sections of T-Track $25.95 value
- 2ea. 11" Table Brackets $12.99 value
- 1ea. 32" Miter Track $12.99 value & 4 ea. Star Knobs and Bolts $6.00 value
- 1ea. Extension Table Plan $8.99 value
SKIL 3410 Table Saw Replacement Miter Gauge Assembly # 2610011708
- Includes (1) 2610011708 Miter Gauge
- New, Bulk Packed
- Genuine Skil Replacement Part
- Consult owners manual for proper part number identification and proper installation
- Compatible with Skil 3410 Table saw only
Bosch TS1004 Table Saw Dust Collector Bag
- Compatible with Bosch 4000 10-inch tablesaws
- Easy to attach and detach to your tablesaw
- Effective at keeping your work area clear of debris
- Provides up to 70-percent of guaranteed dust collection
- Crafted out of heavy cloth material with sturdy zipper for trouble free emptying
E-TING 4Pcs Hand Tool Toggle Clamp 201B Antislip Red Horizontal Clamp 201-B Quick Release Tool
- Package Included: 4 pcs E-TING GH-201B horizontal quick release toggle clamp
- Size: approx. 9.5 x 6.5 x 3.8cm/ 3.7" x 2.56" x 1.5" (L*W*H). Holding capacity force: 198 lbs.
- Material: Cold-rolled carbon Steel with Zinc plated coating for corrosion resistance; Oil and Stain resistant red vinyl solid hand grips, complete with adjustable rubber pressure tips
- Design: Low height design. Retracted clamp will allow for vertical removal of clamped item, mechanism allows maximum clearance
- Application: A rock-solid grip to install on jigs, tool fixtures, or movable bases
Woodhaven 4553 Box Joint Jig Upgrade Kit
- The Box Joint Jig Upgrade Kit adds additional safety, convenience and ease of use features to your 4555 Box Joint Jig - sold separately. The 4553 Upgrade Kit can be added at any time once you have the 4555 Box Joint Jig.
- You must have the 4555 Box Joint Jig to use the 4553 Upgrade Kit. Includes our 4555D five piece Setup Jigs for quick and easy setups of 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" & 3/4" joints.
- Includes two adjustable Work Platforms that provide a safe and stable surface for the part to rest on. Made of slick 1/4" thick HDPE (color may be black or white), they attach to the underside of the 24" Ultra Track from the 4555 and eliminate friction between your saw or router table and the bottom of your workpiece. Also includes an Adapter Head for attachment to your miter gauge so you don't have to make your own.
- Includes a Stop that attaches to the back of the 24" Ultra Track. This indexes against a side of the Adapter Head to help fine tune the joint size. Also includes a bit/blade Shield that attaches to the top of the 24" Ultra Track and projects out the back where the bit/blade exits.
- Lifetime guarantee against defects in material or workmanship. Made in the USA!
POWERTEC 71035 Table Saw Taper Jig
- Sturdy extruded aluminum guide bars; fully adjustable
- Includes graduated scale measuring degrees and inches per foot of taper
- Cut accurate tapers up to 3" per foot or Degree
- Backside stop securely holds wood in Place
- Dimensions: 2-1/2-inch wide x 24-inch long x 1-1/-inch 8 high; weighs 2 pounds
Oak Butcher Block Countertops, Do it Yourself
Butcher Block countertops, oak maple, do it yourself, cutting board, woodworking
I recently remodeled my kitchen and refinished the existing custom wood cabinets to distressed white painted, added a Viking wall oven and made new wood cabinets for the cook top island. In another area of the kitchen I also replaced the existing wet bar with new custom wood cabinets that have recessed style doors, stained espresso finish with an oak butcher block countertop. The dark espresso stained bar coordinates well with the white painted kitchen cabinets. For the bar sink countertop I purchased an already made oak butcher block slab then cut it to size and customized the edging by adding a 1 Â½" built up edge to give the appearance that the bar top is 3" thick. The oak wood countertop accents nicely with the dark finished bar cabinets.
I decided to make the new island cabinets the same color as the wet bar with a real wood butcher block countertop. I had planned on purchasing a stock size butcher block slab for the island but was having a hard time finding the slab size. The custom top had to be 28" x 82" to install the Thermador six burner cook top in. Being a cabinetmaker, I didn't want to pay the high price for someone else to make the custom butcher block top which would cost over $800 and take 6-8 weeks to get
If you are an experienced woodworker you may want try to do it yourself, maybe make a cutting board or small top before you attempt to make a large countertop or table. Making your own butcher block countertop probably isn't cost effective, the rough lumber alone will cost as much as buying an already made stock size wood countertop. The more I thought about the cost of buying a new custom butcher block top and waiting six weeks, the more I was convinced to make it myself. The cost of the wood to make this top was around $350. I figured if the top didn't turn out too good I would use it temporarily for a couple of months until I ordered one.
Butcher block countertops can be made from almost any species of hardwood some of the most popular are- oak, rock maple, cherry, ash and walnut. I chose oak and used - 1x2x8' long and needed about 30 pieces which cost about $275. I saved some money on the oak because I wasn't filling in the center space of the cook top cut out which is 19"x43". I just needed enough to make the two slabs on the sides and two 5" wide strips on the length of the countertop.
I first cut all the 1" x 2" oak 19" long which would be used for the 2 slabs on both sides of the cook top opening. I laid them all out with the good side facing down on a flat workbench as that would be the top surface. I glued one side of each of the 1x2's, about 23 pieces together with Titebond III Ultimate wood glue. While the glue was still wet I set the oak strips using a 24" framing square to flush the ends before clamping.
After they were set square I used 2 bar clamps on each slab to clamp the laminated boards together. The clamps were tightened to close all the gaps between the strips and squeeze out the excess glue. This made two slabs approx 19" x 19" that would be laminated later to the longer laminated pieces for the length of the countertop. I left the clamps on for 24 hours so the glue would totally cure and bond the oak strips together. When the clamps were taken off I scraped off the excess dried glue on the edges and then trimmed the slabs on a table saw keeping the square side against the fence so all edges would be square for assembling to the longer 1x2 oak strips.
Next, I precut ten 1x2's for the length of the countertop, five for each side would be laminated together. I laid out the cut pieces with the good face up. I started by gluing and nailing one long 1x2 to the one side of each of the smaller slabs and did the same on the other side of the slabs. When butcher block tops are made in a factory they are not nailed together, I did this because it was easier to temporarily hold the 1x2's in place until they were clamped. This worked fine because the nails are on the side that is not seen in the finished countertop. Next, I glued four more long oak strips on each side making up the total width of the countertop- 28". I used four bar clamps and tightened them until all gaps were closed and the excess glue squeezed out of the joints. I left the butcher block clamped for 24 hours so the glue would be totally cured.
The next day I removed all the clamps and was now ready to add a 1x2 oak band around the perimeter edge of the countertop. I allowed a 1 Â½" in the overall size of the top for this edging. This edge strip would also cover the end grains of the laminated pieces and it would have mitered corners just like any wood trim on a countertop edge. I let the edge trim dry for a couple of hours and was now ready to sand the surface and bottom of the butcher block slab. Before sanding, the excess glue residue must be scraped off.
Next I used 60 grit sanding belts on a Bosch 4"x24" belt sander to flatten the surface. This first rough sanding must be done cross grained to make the top surface even if you don't have a planer. The bottom was done first and then the top. The bottom doesn't have to be perfect as it won't be seen. After several passes on the top with the 60 grit, I changed the sanding belt to120 grit for a smoother surface. This sanding is done with the grain NOT cross grain. This will remove all other imperfections in the surface from saw cutting and sanding.
If you want to shape the edge of the countertop now is the time to do it. With a router use a roundover or ogee shaped bit. As with any routed edge, make a few passes around the countertop cutting a little each time. Don't make the full depth cut of the router bit in one pass because the oak may splinter or the router bit will get too hot and leave burn marks on the shaped profile. Now for the final sanding, use a vibratory sander with 220 grit fine sandpaper on the complete surface of the top and edges to remove all previous sanding marks. When done sanding vacuum off all loose dust and it is ready to stain or apply a clear finish.
I prefer a clear wood finish instead of an oiled finish. If the butcher block is going to be used for cutting I would suggest using oil, this will treat the wood and help prevent splintering and liquids being absorbed into the surface. For my project I applied six coats of Sherwin Williams waterborne polyurethane varnish. This gives a furniture finish which is easy to clean and is very durable. If you choose to use this type of product you must sand with 400grit sandpaper between all coats for adhesion.