13 Best Automotive Replacement Torsion Bars

List Updated June 2020

Bestselling Automotive Replacement Torsion Bars in 2020


ACDelco 45G26007 Professional Front Torsion Bar Mount Arm

ACDelco 45G26007 Professional Front Torsion Bar Mount Arm
BESTSELLER NO. 1 in 2020
  • Premium, high-quality aftermarket component
  • Engineered to meet your expectations for fit, form, and function
  • Provides the performance and dependability you expect from ACDelco

GM Chevy Torsion Bar Unloading Tool Key Removal Heavy Duty Forged Steel New Chevy GMC Oldsmobile

GM Chevy Torsion Bar Unloading Tool Key Removal Heavy Duty Forged Steel New Chevy GMC Oldsmobile
BESTSELLER NO. 2 in 2020
  • GM Chevy Torsion Bar. Forged steel construction: made for use on trucks with heavy duty chassis and a larger torsion bar
  • Heavy Duty, Forged Steel.
  • Larger threads: 7/8 inch diameter threads
  • Premium heavy duty tool is designed to hold the torsion bar while you make adjustments.
  • Please check vehicle applications below.

Moog K100011 Torsion Bar Key

Moog K100011 Torsion Bar Key
BESTSELLER NO. 3 in 2020
  • Allows adjustment range from 1/2" to 1 1/2".
  • Restores ride height to be within OE specifications for vehicles with a fatigued torsion bar.

Gizmo Supply GM Chevy Ford Torsion Bar

Gizmo Supply GM Chevy Ford Torsion Bar
BESTSELLER NO. 4 in 2020
  • Heavy Duty, Forged Steel
  • Larger threads: 7/8 inch diameter threads
  • Premium heavy duty tool is designed to hold the torsion bar while you make adjustments
  • Please check vehicle applications below

OTC 7826 Torsion Bar Tool for Ford Truck

OTC 7826 Torsion Bar Tool for Ford Truck
BESTSELLER NO. 5 in 2020
  • This tool firmly holds the torsion bar on Ford light-duty trucks while you adjust or service the front suspension
  • Without it a torsion bar could unwind and possibly cause damage
  • The tool fits 1997-2003 Ford F-150 4WD pickups 1995-2001 Ford Explorer 4WD 1998-2001 Mercury Mountaineer and 1998-2001 Ford Ranger

ABN Torsion Bar Unloading Puller Tool Key, Heavy Duty Removal for GM 2011 and Newer HD C/K Trucks

ABN Torsion Bar Unloading Puller Tool Key, Heavy Duty Removal for GM 2011 and Newer HD C/K Trucks
BESTSELLER NO. 6 in 2020
  • PRACTICAL AND REQUIRED: The ABN Torsion Bar Unloading Puller Tool Key for GM 2011 and Newer HD C/K Trucks is required to safely release the tension on the front suspension torsion bar in order to service the front suspension
  • FITMENT APPLICATIONS: Larger design covers GM 2011 and newer HD C/K trucks; Recommended for manual hand tools only (use with air tools is not recommended)
  • WORK IN SAFETY: Designed to hold the torsion bar while you make adjustments to your vehicle; When servicing the lower control arm of the front suspension on GM trucks or replacing a torsion bar, it is necessary to remove the spring pressure from the suspension - To do this, position the torsion bar unloader clamp on the frame and torsion bar mounts and tighten the drive screw of the torsion bar unloader to remove pressure on the torsion bar mount, and then remove the mount and torsion bar
  • DURABLE CONSTRUCTION: Forged steel construction with smooth blue finish made for use on trucks with heavy-duty chassis and a larger torsion bar
  • SPECIFICATIONS: Approximate 7/8-inch diameter larger threads; Large C-frame opening to accommodate beefier torsion bars; Not recommended for use with air tools

ACDelco 45K31012 Professional Front Ride Height Torsion Bar Key Kit with Bolt

ACDelco 45K31012 Professional Front Ride Height Torsion Bar Key Kit with Bolt
BESTSELLER NO. 7 in 2020
  • Professional, premium aftermarket replacement
  • Provides the performance and dependability you expect from ACDelco
  • Manufactured to meet expectations for fit, form, and function

Genuine GM 11561233 Torsion Bar Adjust Nut

Genuine GM 11561233 Torsion Bar Adjust Nut
BESTSELLER NO. 8 in 2020
  • genuine oem factory part
  • exact fit
  • durable
  • best in quality
  • this is not an aftermarket part
  • OEM

Dorman 905506 Torsion Bar Bushing

Dorman 905506 Torsion Bar Bushing
BESTSELLER NO. 9 in 2020

OTC (7822A) GM torsion Bar Unloading tool

OTC (7822A) GM torsion Bar Unloading tool
BESTSELLER NO. 10 in 2020
  • This rugged tool is built for GM's K-3500 series trucks with heavy-duty chassis and a larger torsion bar
  • Features a larger C-frame opening to accommodate beefier torsion bars
  • Tool holds the torsion bar while you make adjustments
  • Also works on 1988 to 2003 GMC and Chevrolet 1/2 3/4 and 1-ton pickups the S-10 Blazer and S-15 Jimmy 4WD pickups with 4.3L V-6 engines and 1991 to 2001 Oldsmobile Bravada

OTC (7832) GM Torsion Bar Unloader

OTC (7832) GM Torsion Bar Unloader
BESTSELLER NO. 11 in 2020
  • This tool is required to safely release the tension on the front suspension torsion bar to service the front suspension
  • Larger design to cover the newer GM Truck applications
  • Application: 2011 and newer HD C/K Trucks
  • When servicing the lower control arm of the front suspension on GM trucks or replacing a torsion bar it is necessary to remove the spring pressure from the suspension
  • Torsion bar unloader can be positioned on the frame and the torsion bar mount

ACDelco 45K31013 Professional Front Ride Height Torsion Bar Key Kit with Bolt

ACDelco 45K31013 Professional Front Ride Height Torsion Bar Key Kit with Bolt
BESTSELLER NO. 12 in 2020
  • Professional, premium aftermarket replacement
  • Provides the performance and dependability you expect from ACDelco
  • Manufactured to meet expectations for fit, form, and function

ABN Torsion Bar Unloading Tool Key, Heavy Duty Removal for GM, Chevy, GMC, Oldsmobile

ABN Torsion Bar Unloading Tool Key, Heavy Duty Removal for GM, Chevy, GMC, Oldsmobile
BESTSELLER NO. 13 in 2020
  • Forged Steel Construction: Made for use on trucks with heavy-duty chassis and a larger torsion bar
  • Variety of Fitment: Fits GMC and Chevrolet 1/2-ton, 3/4-ton, and 1-ton pickups (1988-2003), GM's K-3500 series trucks, S-10 Blazer, S-15 Jimmy, 4WD pickups with 4.3L V8 engines, and Oldsmobile Bravada (1991-2001)
  • Larger Threads: 7/8-inch diameter threads
  • Large C-frame Opening: Accommodates beefier torsion bars
  • Work in Safety: Designed to hold the torsion bar while you make adjustments to your vehicle

How to Lower the Rear Torsion Bar on a Peugeot 106/205/306/309

Descriptive guide on how to lower the rear torsion bar of a 106/205/306/309, hopefully without too much difficulty!

There has been a lot said and written about the job of lowering torsion bar rear suspension on Peugeot and Citroen models. Here I will try to give you the knowledge you need to make a success of the job without pulling too much of your hair out!

I don't pretend that these guidelines are complete or accurate in all respects so please remember this if you get into difficulties...

First you must read and reread the appropriate section of a workshop manual (Haynes manual or similar) and observe safe workshop practice at all times (never work under a car suspended only by the jack, use the right tool for each job, don't work on or around hot exhausts, don't cut your nuts off with an acetylene torch and don't attempt a triple somersault on a trapeze without a safety net; unless of course you're a highly trained and slightly insane circus performer).

The principal of torsion bar suspension is very simple - the wheels hang on the end of 'trailing arms' which in turn are connected to the torsion bars via a spline, the other end of the torsion bar is fixed permanently to the chassis. Each wheel has its own torsion bar. As the wheel rises and falls the torsion bar twists (imagine grabbing both ends of a rubber pencil, twisting each end in opposite directions and you've got the general idea). In addition to this, each wheel has its own shock absorber and an anti-roll bar tops off the major component list.

To the business of lowering.....

Firstly you should decide the amount by which you would like to lower the car (be sensible here as it's a lot of work only to find out later that you can't carry more than a bag of crisps in the boot without the tyres scraping the arch), for example if you have lowered the front by 40mm then consider lowering the rear 35-40mm.

Raise the rear of the car onto axle stands and remove the rear wheels.
Ensure that the rear brake lines are free to allow the trailing arms to drop and unclip them so that they can be pushed aside for access to other components.
Remove the rear shock absorbers.
Find the torsion bar locking cover screws: For the nearside torsion bar the front screw is found in the top half of the nearside trailing arm and the rear screw can be found (with difficulty), in the upper rear part of the offside trailing arm.

For the offside torsion bar, the rear screw is found behind the nearside trailing arm and the front screw is behind the anti-roll bar cover plate on the offside trailing arm. To get to the screw you will need to remove the 13mm anti-roll bar locking plate bolts and plastic covers from the end of the anti-roll bar. Repeat this for both sides. You will now be faced with locking plates - on the offside trailing arm this can be twisted out of the way by inserting an M12 bolt into the plate, tightening it until it twists the plate and allows access to the torsion bar. You thought this would be easy didn't you?!

If you're still in the land of the sane and have resisted the temptation to set fire to your car and retire to the local pub, you will now see before you the torsion bar locking screws. Remove the four torsion bar locking screws with a suitably sized splined tool - you must be very careful not to slip and damage the screw head or the game will be over so clean the heads of the screws very carefully and give it a little squirt of WD40 or something similar.
Once the screws are removed you can use a screwdriver to remove the washer underneath.
Now you must measure between the wheel arch and the hub centre (or hub flange if this is easier). Make a note of this measurement.

Nearside. Using a trolley jack, support the nearside hub at exactly the same height as the measurement you have just taken. Using a slide hammer and suitable stud (M8 from memory), screw into the end of the torsion bar and draw out the bar. Raise the trolley jack (still under the hub!), by the amount you want to lower the car (40mm etc.), and gently reinsert the torsion bar - you will need grease the splines and rotate the bar until the splines match up. Replace the washers and retighten the locking bolts.

Offside. Repeat the measuring and supporting job that you did so well last time and again use the slide hammer to withdraw the torsion bar. Again, raise the trolley jack by the same amount as used for the nearside and reinsert the torsion bar while rotating and gently pushing. Refit the washer and locking bolts. If you can't get within a few millimetres of the nearside lowering amount you may need to adjust the nearside up or down a bit and try again until both sides lower by the same amount.

Now, before you totally reassemble the car, put the wheels back onto the hubs and lower the car off the axle stands. Remove the handbrake and bounce the car a few times each side. Measure the ride height each side and make sure that there is no more than about 6mm difference from one side to the other and that you are happy with the new height of the car.
If you are a happy bunny, refit the nearside anti-roll bar retaining plate and screws and tighten. The offside plate should now be easy to align with the holes and again tighten. If the offside does not align easily, you may have lowered one side more than the other.......
Resecure the brake hose clamps and refit the shock absorbers (they may be a little harder to fit now the car is sitting lower).
Check that all fittings are tight and refit the wheels before driving off (driving off without the wheels fitted can seriously damage your cred. and your driveway).

The fact that i have published this information should in no way lead you to believe that I know exactly what I am talking about - if it all goes horribly wrong I really don't want to hear about it, so please don't phone to complain. If you are in any doubt at all as to your ability to do the job (or our ability to write it down correctly), please give someone else the job as it's just not worth getting it wrong.